Sometime, you need a small circuit to blink some LEDs or do some simple task, say, power on delay function for your DIY amplifier, power on reminder for your soldering station (beep every 3 mins) - which I forgot to turn off all the time… probably, an Attiny13 is just what you need.
I had a project like this about 7 years ago, using an 89s52 as the brain of the system which just run the infinite loop to check for some digital pins if it connect to ground then set the light on the specific pin. I thought it worked not really well in since 89s52 run at 20Mhz, not fast enough. And the wiring was horrible, it looked like a big mess.
Recently, I have another project, for a group of youth people. They need 12 stations for 12 players at a time.
Just bought this laptop Asus x302l about 3 weeks ago. After a week, I found out that it (
is) was impossible to do middle mouse button. There is no such an option for middle mouse button in ASUS Smart Gesture, or I should call ASUS not-so-Smart Gesture. In this entry, I will call it “Asus gesture”.
Tried everything I could find on the internet, and hit the support team of ASUS, none came with success.I am so disappointed. Do I have carry an extra mouse on the go like forever?
Just bought one yesterday from local store for AU$ 799 and it surprised me when it comes with 128GB SSD instead. Nice!
Most cheap PL2303HX USB to UART adaptors from ebay usually don’t have DTR pin to upload sketch easier to Arduino Mini Pro.
This post will show you how to mod this little adaptor to play nice with arduino mini pro. It should take about 10 minutes and require good solder skill.
Turn out this can be a nice analog-clock on my desk to replace the widget analog-clock of windows 7.
This is a sample entry, posted to show you some of the features of FlatPress.
The more tag allows you to create a “jump” between an excerpt and the complete article.
Playing around with 2.8” TFT display with driver ILI9341 from ebay. This one has SPI connection and SD card reader built-in at the back of this TFT display. I choose the display without touch-screen because I don’t need it for my next project.
But it seems I always have trouble with things from ebay: this TFT display using driver ILI9341 that accept 3v3 signal and the module doesn’t come with a level conversion chip like this LCD Shield using driver 4535.
For the first time having experience with arduino and TFT screen, a TFT display shield should be better than a breakout TFT display, because a shield is something that made for plug-n-play, like a usb thing, just plug it in the computer and it works right away.
That what I thought when I bought this shield.
But I was wrong.
It is the cheap TFT display you will get from ebay. There are serveral models using different drivers - mine uses LGDP4535 - that look like the picture above.
Bought a D5100 about a year ago. It is an entry level / consumer level DSLR and yet it is a powerful one. The wonderful thing of SLR / DSLR is that you can change the lens. I like Nikon for it’s compatible of wide range of lens including very old manual lens from the 80’s with superb image quality for very low price.
By the time I bought my D5100, its about 14.000.000vnd ~ US$ 700 come with 18-55mm VR kit Lens. Good enough for a newb like me.